Adding Another Dog to Your Home

This topic comes up in a variety of ways in both my personal and professional life.

• Adding a dog to my own personal home
• Visiting family/friends who also have dogs (a little off topic but related)
• Clients wondering about adding another dog
• Clients who have added another dog and things aren't going as they expected.

When we decide to add another dog to our home, we usually have visions of the dogs becoming good friends, playing together, sleeping together, sharing everything, etc.   And while that sometimes does happen, it is also wise to consider that sometimes it doesn't, or not as fast as we would like.  If you're in the thinking about it stage, we'll look at some factors to consider and ways to stack the deck in your favour.  If you've already added your new dog and you've run into some unexpected hiccups, try backing up a bit, give everyone their own space, and reintroduce slower and potentially with some help creating good associations and tolerance for the other dog.

Consider Personalities Involved

When people are considering adding another dog, I highly recommend thinking about their current dog's (or dogs') personalities and preferences.  For example:

• Does your current dog enjoy puppies?
• Does your current dog enjoy meeting and interacting with new dogs?
• Does your dog have any preferences when it comes to interactions with other dogs?  
• Have you already brought another dog into your home?  If so, how did it go and has anything changed since then?

Then turn around and ask some questions about the dog you are planning to add.  Initially, this may be a hypothetical, for example, do you want to add a puppy or an adult dog?  Once you have narrowed down your search, it is advisable to talk to the rescue/foster/breeder about the personality of the puppy/dog you are considering so you can identify any potential challenges.  For example, if both the new dog and your dog value toys highly and don't like to share, that should alert you to the potential for conflict over toys being higher than if neither of them cared if another dog took off with their toy.

Initial Encounter

Here are some things to consider when planning the initial encounter.

• Neutral Territory: If possible, arrange for the first meeting to take place in a neutral area, such as a park. This reduces the likelihood of territorial behavior from your existing dog(s).  I love parallel walks, where the dogs walk beside each other, but far enough apart not to reach each other.  This gives them some exposure to how the other dog moves and acts, while not making the other dog the sole focus, because there are also interesting things to smell on the walk.
• No Gangs:  If you have more than one dog already, introduce them to the new dog one at a time.  This avoids having the new dog swarmed by all of your existing dogs, which can be overwhelming to the new dog who doesn't know any of them.  Instead rotate through them individually, before having more than one out with your new dog at the same time.
• Separate Spaces: Prepare separate areas in your home where the dogs can be kept apart initially. This gives them time to adjust to each other's presence without physical contact.  Baby gates and puppy playpens/x-pens are great for this, as they can see, hear and smell each other.
• Consider Resources: I recommend initially picking up all toys and long lasting chews, to reduce the risk of conflict.  Give those things when the dogs can enjoy them on their own.  As the dogs get used to each other, start by leaving out some lower value toys under supervision only, then gradually move back to your regular routine as long as everything is going well.  Please be aware that some dogs are not okay with sharing very valuable things such as long lasting chews or treat dispensing toys.
• Short and Sweet: Keep the first interaction brief. Even if things are going well, it's best to end the meeting on a positive note.
• Gradual Integration: Over the next few days and weeks, gradually increase the amount of time the dogs spend together. Continue to supervise their interactions closely and separate them when unsupervised
• What to Watch For: You want to see loose, relaxed body language. A wagging tail alone is not enough to go  off of - a tail  can be held stiffly, and wagging in a tense fashion, or it can be held loosely and wagging in a relaxed movement.  ​
  

What to Do if Things Get Tense

Sometimes things don't go according to plan, so it is wise to have a backup plan!  

• Separate and Reset: If the dogs are not getting along, separate them and give them some time apart. Reintroduce them later when both are calm.
• Use Words: Ideally separate the dogs by talking to them and encouraging one or both of them to return to you so you can separate them, rather than by trying to physically get a hold of one of them (the exception being very young puppies, most young puppies you can scoop up if needed until they will come to you on cue).  Often if two dogs are in the midst of a tense situation, and you take a hold of a collar/harness, they will start barking/growling/lunging.  That restraint often escalates the situation, so I try to avoid doing that if possible.  If it's not possible, then you do what you need to in order to keep everyone safe, but try walking away and encouraging them to come with your first.

Acclimation Period

Introducing a new dog isn't just about the first few days—it's an ongoing process, faster for some, longer for others. Keep an eye on how your dogs are adjusting to each other, and make adjustments to your routines in response.

• Positive Reinforcement: Reward good behavior with treats and praise. Positive reinforcement helps the dogs associate each other's presence with good things.
• Apology Cookies: More applicable when introducing a new puppy.  If puppy does something rude like barreling into your adult dog, step in to redirect the puppy and hand your adult dog a little treat.  This teaches your adult dog that you have their back, and if you miss, you'll compensate them.  It goes a long way to avoid resentment of puppy and their sharp teeth.
• One on One Time: It's a good idea to have some time that is one on one with you and your dogs - old and new.  This can reassure your resident dog(s) that they still have your attention, and allow you time to bond with your new dog and teach them some helpful cues.
• Helpful Cues: I find it really helpful if the dogs all  know a few cues such as come, stay, touch, and place.  With those, I can move a dog towards or away from me helping me manage situations before they escalate.  
• Watch for Signs of Stress: Monitor the dogs for signs of stress, such as excessive panting, hiding, avoiding moving around as they usually would or approaching you. 
• Watch for Signs of Acceptance: Monitor the dogs for signs that things are going well and they are happy with each other.  Relaxed body language, lack of avoidance, happily greeting each other, etc.  Then you can reduce some of the management you have in place and reevaluate in a few days again.

When to Seek Professional Help

If despite your best efforts, the dogs are not getting along, it may be time to seek professional help. A professional can bring an outside set of eyes, their knowledge and experience to offer personalized advice and strategies to help with your individual situation, because every dog is an individual, and every combination of dogs is unique.